Sunday 9 June 2013

"SOS", Smiths of Smithfield, London UK - 5/5

I am a self-confessed carnivore, and aficionado for locally sourced good quality fresh produce. So when I was invited to a showcase event on June 3 2013, at Smiths of Smithfield, I jumped at the chance to attend.

Arranged over a Grade II listed venue in the heart of Smithfield Market is a New York style open space setting designed to serve the casual to formal diner on each designated level of the building. Our party was hosted on the Top Floor (Level 3), which has magnificent views of the city.

I opted for the 2007 Nyetimber English Sparkling to accompany the canapés being served; my favourites were the Salt and Pepper Squid, Scallops and Black Pudding and the Rhug Chicken Livers. The fresh Colchester Rock Oyster went down a treat too.

One of the highlights of the evening was the butchery demonstration by executive chef Tony Moyse. I was delighted by the full process of identifying the different cuts and the attributes of flavour according to those cuts, not just simply knowing but also seeing. Whilst butchery may seem intuitive, i.e. one must cut along the bone, there is an acquired skill in knowing what direction to fillet in order to get the most of the meat. For example, cutting in the wrong direction of the fibres can mean that the meat becomes unnecessarily chewy and tough once cooked, and with experience comes certain flair.

After the demonstration, we were all excited to be seated, anticipating the meaty delights that would be served, with wines selected by David Gleave MW, of Liberty Wines.

Starter
South Devonshire Beef Carpaccio & Tartare dressed with Slow Cooked Yolk, Capers, Shallot, Gherkin and Ponzu Dressing.
2010 “La Rocca” Soave Classsico, Leonildo Pieropan,, Veneto Italy. And “Plexus” Barossa Valley, Marsanne/Roussane/Viogner South Australia
Delicious well rounded flavours of fats from the beef, acidity from the Ponzu dressing and creaminess from the slow cooked yolk. I particularly liked the ribbons of flavour in the tartare which in my opinion is one of the best I’ve tasted.

Mains
South Devon Rump, Steve Turton, Newton Abbot,
Organic Aberdeen Angus Sirloin, Lord Newbourgh, Rhug Estate
Simmental Fillet, Aubrey Allen Warwickshire
House Sauces, Bone Marrow Butter, Béarnaise, Peppercorn and
Sides: Fat Chips, Thin Chips, Leaf Salad and Creamed Spinach
2010 Cote Robe, Domaine François et Fils Rhone France
2008 Barolo, Massolino, Piemonte, Italy

The mains were flawless, the flavours of the carefully selected reared beef was testament to why good produce should be the foundation of an excellent meal. My favourite cut was the rump, the most flavoursome because of the sheer amount of work that part of the body has to do. The marrow butter, with a rich smokiness was a great accompaniment; it was like liquid gold, a commodity we all vied for. The chips, both fat and skinny, were crispy yet flaky on the inside, as was the salad and spinach fresh. This steak house certainly did not disappoint.

Dessert
Eton Tidy
English Strawberries, Meringue, Vanilla Cream Rice Pudding, Strawberry Tuile
2008 “Château Laville”, Sauternes, Jean-C. Barbe, Bordeaux, France
2011 “Cordon Cut” Clare Valley Riesling, M. Horrockss, Australia

A delicious and refreshing end to the meal, rich enough to feel indulgent, yet light enough not to feel too full. The blend of textures and flavours were complementary, I particularly liked the strawberry tuile which was tangy and fresh, a good pairing with the richness of the creams and rice pudding.

Overall, I give this dining experience a 5/5. The food and wine was excellent, service impeccable and the views added a superb mise en scene.

Bene

Friday 31 May 2013

Jamie's Italian, Covent Garden, London UK - 4.5/5

A friend and I visited Jamie's on Thursday 29th May. We were drawn in by the little hideaway it occupies on St Martin's Lane and the rustic décor and bubbly vibes.

The hostess greeted us immediately once we entered. since we did not have any reservations, we were told that the waiting time would be 45 minutes and given a buzzer that would work within a 2 mile radius, she also gave some recommendations of local places we could go to have a drink while we waited. Clever little device that thing was, and good customer services at that.

After we had drank 2 large glasses/vats of wine, we returned when the buzzer went off, starving and in need of some bread to soak up the alcohol. The Waiter was very pleasant, noticing that we had the giggles, he mused at our rather ambitious discussion to order the whole menu. Starting with the Italian Bread Selection and Arancini for starters, I opted for the Prawn Linguine, whilst my friend chose the Black Angel Spaghetti as our mains. We quite sensibly turned down the offer of wine, to spare ourselves the torture of more giggles.

The bread was delicious, bread sticks, focaccia, ciabatta and some other rustic breads. The arancini was warm, crispy with a tangy pickle. My main dish was delicious, garlicky and buttery with lots of sauce to mop up with the bread. My friends spaghetti was equally tasty, mind you the portion was noticeably smaller than my dish however the waiter made up for that by bringing us a complimentary order of the polenta chips (also delicious). We didn't have coffee or dessert, by this time we were defeated by our eyes being bigger than our stomachs.

Overall it was a lovely dining experience. The quality and freshness of the food was noticeable and the attentive and helpful customer services, clean surroundings with culinary props, contemporary lighting and a buzz like . I give this experience 4.5/5.

Bene